the history of our churches

All Saints Herstmonceux

St. Mary Magdalene Wartling

All Saints Herstmonceux stands on a gentle slope that looks South and West across the Pevensey levels. It is almost two miles south of the present village, near the castle, and marks the site of a mediaeval village. The date when this was moved is not certain, however in 1441 Roger Fenys (or Fiennes), the builder of the castle, received permission to make a park of the 600 surrounding acres and that may have been the occasion. The oldest parts are the 12th century west tower (perhaps the only Sussex church tower which forms part of the west end of the nave) and the west wall of the nave.  It consists of a 13th/14th century nave, chancel, and north and south aisles with a 15th century north chapel. A church here was mentioned in 1086 in the Doomsday Book, but nothing datable to that time remains. The tower stands at the North West corner, and, unusually for the date, is built of sandstone ashlar, with massive clasping buttresses. The tomb in the opening between chapel and chancel is that of Roger Fiennes (d1449) for whom the chapel was built. The bricks of which it is constructed are not otherwise found in Sussex churches at this date but closely resemble those used in the castle, which was then near completion. After the Reformation the windows were replaced by domestic type ones at the west end of the nave and south aisle. More work was needed on the church however, when, on 3 July 1944, a German bomb demolished three windows and damaged ten more, the roof and the shingles.
A Wartling Church is mentioned in the Doomsday Book, but there was a undoubtedly a Saxon Chapel long before that. The Church now sits on the site of a chapel which had links to St Mary in the Castle of Hastings. The present Church of St. Mary Magdelene dates to the 13th century. There have been building works over many centuries, these being traceable back as far as the 14th century at the west end of the Church, with the belfry now with a shingled broached spire.   There was once a Minstrels Gallery gallery over the rear pews, but this was removed around 1870, when it then contained an organ.  The north aisle was also added in the 14th century. The Church also retains the box pews, which were designed to keep the occupants' insulated as much as possible from the drafts that were a problem. At the East End of the aisle there is a War Memorial commemorating the staff who were stationed at RAF Wartling, where a WW2 and Cold War Radar Station was situated. The South Aisle is quite probably 15th century although difficult to date exactly, due to alterations over the years, but there is a carving of a Pelham buckle and a Catherine wheel on the outside wall, this, possibly in memory of Catherine the daughter of Sir John Pelham, who died in 1459, the Chapel being dedicated to St. Catherine. The most photographed item in the Church is the Heron Lectern and next, perhaps, the painting of the Royal Arms of George the Second high up on the Chancel Arch, which is dated 1731. The Church also contains a toilet, suitable for disabled use, and a car park, which is  accessible by the road at the side of the Lamb Inn.


St. Mary Magdalene and the British Pilgrimage Trust and 'The Old Way.' 

Pilgrimage was once Britain’s most popular expression of leisure and spirituality, which was enjoyed by Kings and labourers alike. But the tradition was cut short in 1538, when Henry VIII and Cromwell banned pilgrimage in Britain. Ever since then, the tradition has lain fallow until now, being revived by the British Pilgrimage Trust.

It was wonderful to learn that the Church of St. Mary Magdalene Wartling was on one of the old Pilgrimage Routes, the 'Old Way', a 250 mile journey from Southampton to Canterbury.

We still have people visiting us that are walking the pilgrimage route. They are a living part of this tradition of Christian Spirituality and commitment, joining their footsteps, as they enter St Mary's, with the countless others that have trod the path into and in the Church over the many centuries. Among them being King Henry ll who as a penance for the death of Thomas Becket, walked this route, and did penance at the tomb after walking the last few miles of this very route into Canterbury barefoot, while being, it is reputed, flogged by the Cathedral monks. 

The core goal of the British Pilgrimage Trust is to “advance British pilgrimage as a form of cultural heritage that promotes holistic wellbeing, for the public benefit.”

‘Holistic wellbeing’ includes physical, mental, emotional, social, community, environmental and spiritual health, and we aim to make these benefits accessible to wide new audiences. Pilgrimage has the potential to promote community and diversity in Britain’s spiritual landscape. 

Pilgrimage, which is journeying with purpose on foot to holy places has been manifest since hunter-gatherers followed well-worn tracks, which became processional pagan pathways, which in turn became ritualised journeys in Celtic, medieval, and early modern Christianity. 

Pilgrimage was once Britain’s most popular expression of leisure and spirituality and is again becoming popular among many people as they find can peace, solitude, and also companionship with time to reflect and be slow. We are, after all, human beings and not simply human doings.

To learn more about the Pilgrimage Trust, The Old Way  and to view the map, please click on the image that is below:


Wartling and Herstmonceux Churchyards. Their history and present place in nature conservation


The Churches of St. Mary Magdalene Wartling and All Saints Herstmonceux possess historic Churchyards. Far more than a cemetery that cares for those that are held in its embrace over the many past generations in a unique way, and this care may well date back to Saxon times.  The management of their surrounding fields have changed from using Oxen to horse to Traction Engines to tractors. The churchyard however remains a seasonal reminder of the plant and wildlife of the past centuries.


they are places where many people visit in order to find peace and solace, where some make a regular or annual visit to lay flowers, and others journey from across the world to visit the last resting place of an ancestor before the family emigrated to the New World.   No longer do sheep graze there to mow, but the plants and wildlife still flourish under the love and care that is given. Recent events and surveys carried out in Wartling Churchyard showed that there were over 70 species of moths (please see the News Page for that event details) 37 varieties of Moss and Liverworts etc, 90 varieties of vascular plants, ranging from Sycamore Trees to Ox-eye Daisy and 108 varieties of Lichen, as well as bird an animal life that is increasingly being excluded from previous habitats. In Wartling Church you will find a book with the details of the surveys.


The Churchyards are not like a park, garden or cemetery with distinct edges, straight lines or geometrical curves, but resemble a cottage garden, beloved of very many and usually of the sort voted the public winner in the Chelsea Flower Show. It then appeals to our genetic makeup, allowing any of us to visit whenever the need is there for us to do so, and relax in quiet contemplation with the creation of nature. A place where perhaps we realise that, despite the stress and strain of daily life, we are a part of something much bigger.


You can read about our local area HERE

And you can read about our local farmland HERE